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Today, I have drawn my piece of jewellery to scale.  I have decided to design an earring, as my earlier drawings just seemed perfect for that.  I drew the cross on the graph paper, as described yesterday, and then I placed a sheet of tracing paper over the graph paper.

I then draw a small cross, in light pencil strokes, on the tracing paper – tracing the cross on the graph paper.  This means that if you take the tracing paper off the graph paper (for whatever reason) you can make sure that it goes back in exactly the same position as it was originally placed.

I then began to draw my earring design ON THE TRACING PAPER, still placed on top of the graph paper.  Using the graph paper takes a lot of hard work out of the process.   Us the vertical line of the pencil cross as the vertical middle of you design – therefore it is easy to make sure that each vertical half of your design is equal in size.  You can count the tiny 1mm squares.  If one half of your design is 14 mm away from the vertical cross line then the mirroring half of your design has to be 14 mm away from the vertical line, in the other direction.

This only matters, of course, if your design is symmetrical.  I find, that even if my design is organic and not symmetrical, drawing around a centre point is still useful.

As you can see on the A4 sheet of paper to the left, an earring design is actually very small and it is great to draw with 0.3 mm. pencil lead.  I always get surprised by how small my designs become!  When I finished drawing on the tracing paper, I then get a sheet of CANFORD PAPER A4 in GUN METAL (which is a medium grey colour) and photocopy the drawing that I have finished on the tracing paper ONTO the Canford Paper Gun Metal.

If you can’t get the above paper then a good quality, thick, medium grey paper that will take GOUACHE paint will do.

My finished design, now on the Gun Metal paper is 3.5 mm in length.  If you can you need to draw you design on the tracing paper from three ways

a)  Looking at it from the front

b) Looking at it from the side

c) Looking at it from above.

All this drawing really does help to iron out any making problems that might occur later in the process.  Tomorrow the best bit (well for me anyway) the painting.  It is this, that definitely helps me decide whether the design is good enough to spend lots of money buying silver or gold and investing precious time making it.  Once again, I must mention Hannah Martin, the fabulous jeweller, designer and illustrator for teaching me the illustration methods that I am writing about here.

Just thought I would include a photo of early stages of a collection I am working on at the moment.  As you can see THE PHOTOCOPIER IS YOUR FRIEND.  I have photocopied the “dragon” aspect of the necklace and then cut them out and stuck copies on many other sheets of paper.  That gives me the opportunity to draw lots and lots of chain designs/fastener designs etc without the hassle of redrawing the dragon shape many times

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